The gianduiotto, the renowned, prism-shaped chocolate that figures among the symbols of the city of Turin, has been at the heart of a conflict between the Committee for “Gianduiotto di Torino” PGI and the Swiss giant Lindt & Sprüngli.
After nearly two years of negotiations, the parties have reached a compromise that paves the way for the committee to establish the PGI for “Gianduiotto di Torino”.
In March 2022, the Committee, composed of local entrepreneurs and chocolatiers and backed by the Piedmont Region, initiated the process for achieving PGI recognition for a product that is a hallmark of Turin’s confectionery heritage. In response to this initiative, Lindt & Sprüngli, which acquired Caffarel in 1997 and owns the trademark “Gianduia 1865. L’autentico Gianduiotto di Torino” (i.e., Gianduia 1865. The Authentic Gianduiotto of Turin), promptly raised concerns that the recognition of the PGI status could have resulted in the impossibility for the factory to prosecute the production of the chocolate following its own recipe and maintaining its branding.
According to the Committee, the creation of a genuine gianduiotto only requires three ingredients: hazelnuts, sugar and chocolate. On the other hand, Caffarel’s recipe incorporates a lower percentage of Piedmont hazelnuts and includes powdered milk.
The agreement that has been reached will allow the PGI creation process to continue, while ensuring that Lindt can keep using its brand without having to alter its recipe.
So, what exactly is a PGI?
The PGI, or Protected Geographical Indication, is a designation conferred by the European Union on products (either agricultural or food) whose specific quality, reputation or other characteristics are linked to their geographical origin; additionally, their production, transformation and/or processing occurs in that particular region.
With respect to the Protected Designation of Origin (DOP), the PGI trademark has more lenient requirements.
To attain an PGI trademark, it is sufficient that one phase of the production process takes place within the designated geographical area. In contrast, the DOP trademark is conferred when all phases of production, transformation and processing entirely occur within the specified region.
The DOP trademark certifies products that are completely produced and packaged within the stated area of origin, while the PGI one certifies that not all the production processes are tied to that area, though the most significant phases are, i.e., those contributing to the product’s distinctive character.
When consumers encounter a product marked as PGI, they can be assured that it originates from a specific geographical area and at least one phase among production, transformation and/or processing occurs within that defined area, conforming to a stringent set of regulations that all producers must adhere to rigorously.
The PGI trademark thus serves as a means to acknowledge and protect the authenticity of a local product; it safeguards traditional recipes and characteristic production processes from the region, without necessarily encompassing the entirety of the product’s origin, aside from its final production.
It provides legal protection to products sourced from particular locations, ensuring that they can maintain their quality and reputation.
The European Union’s system of Protected Geographical Indications (PGI) is designed to protect and promote both the production systems and the economies of various regions. This unbreakable bond with the place of origin also aims to protect ecosystems and biodiversity while fostering social cohesion within the entire community. A trademark adds significant value and brings recognition to the area of production, ensuring the preservation of the local environment, traditions and unique characteristics.
The Protected Geographical Indication serves as a safeguard against counterfeits and alterations in recipes that could undermine the authenticity of regional specialties.
